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历史上,众多的炼金家都曾经试图通过某些手段来制造合成出更加廉价的金子以获取利润,因此积累了黄金添加了不同元素后的不同质地与色泽效果的经验。
  与标准的18k黄金不同,在色泽上略呈红色的18k粉金(pink gold)有着红金(red gold)、玫瑰金(rose gold)等不同的称呼,又因为它曾经在19世纪初期风行于俄罗斯而有了俄罗斯金(russian gold)的名称。其成分大体上是750‰的纯金加上250‰的电解纯铜,具有延展性强、坚硬度高、不易变形或刮伤以及色彩多变等特点。后者尤其得益于合金成分的改变如果加入银的话,颜色会变浅,加入越多的银,红色就会越浅。当银的含量增加到10%,铜含量退至15%左右的时候,颜色就会比较偏淡或者偏粉。如今,人们已经习惯用不同的编号来定义其色度的变化3n粉金(成分为75%纯金加13%银加12%铜),4n粉金(成分为75%纯金加9%银加16%铜),5n粉金(成分为75%黄金加4.5%银加20.5%铜)。可以看到,加入的银越少而铜越多,则其色泽也越来越偏深偏红。
  此外,最容易引起人们误解的是18k白金。尽管在色泽上一般难以与不锈钢、铂等区分开来,但它仍是18k金的一种,只不过其组成成分有着些微的不同。其中纯金所占的比例也依然是750‰,至于另外250‰的金属,那往往是各家的秘密所在。江诗丹顿在2007年就更改了旗下男款手表的白金配方。比较常见的白金成分是纯金75%加钯12.5%加铜6%加银4%加镍2.5%,然后电镀金属铑保护,但是江诗丹顿将钯的比例提高到15%,这个代价昂贵的动作使得白金无需电镀铑就可以更加闪亮,厂方还指出这样的配方将增加其强度,更不容易磨损。其实,与18k白金一样,18k粉金也容易发生褪色的现象,于是百达翡丽与劳力士近年来都宣传自己的18k粉金的配方特殊,是所谓“永恒”不褪色的新材料,事实上只有行家才能够分辨出其色泽的与众不同之处。
  此外,借助现代合金铸造技术,人们还可以制造出在质地色彩上完全不同以往的18k金来。前者如宇博材质研发部的新作世界上第一款防划痕的材质魔力金。这一切始于一个奇思妙想“不会被刮伤的18k金”。在洛桑联邦理工学院的协助下,经过六个月的可行性研究,最终诞生了将黄金与陶瓷结合的全新防磨损的18k 金。这是前所未见的新材料只有钻石才能在其表面留下真正意义上的划痕,并且以暗亚的色泽区别于其它黄金。魔力金诞生的意义并不仅限于一种材质,而是开启了众多新材质问世的大门。目前,魔力铂金、魔力银、魔力铝等材质正在积极的研究过程中。
  后者如朗格为纪念其创始人费尔迪南多·阿道夫·朗格而推出的165yearshomage to f.a.lange周年纪念系列三款复杂功能手表,为区别于传统限量表,朗格的制表师想到了改变金属成分的方法,蜂蜜色金(honey gold)材质由此诞生这种材质仍是18k金,但是坚硬无比其硬度超过维氏300度,提高到其它金质合金的两倍硬度,甚至也超过了铂金。其光泽度很是独特,颜色远比普通的18k偏淡,很有历史久远的古董表的韵味。据厂方透露,之所以能够有这样的效果,是因为加入了锰与硅并经过高温处理。语焉不详,更增加了几分神秘感,似乎它是由一些现代的炼金士们在封闭的地下密室里,通过摆弄烧瓶、电炉什么的弄出了的现代神秘物。
  类似的情况还有百达翡丽至今仍然严守着配方秘密的18k蓝金。无论是椭圆形的3738,还是其经典的金袖扣,那深不可测的湛蓝色光辉,吸引了众多人的目光,成为藏家赞扬百达翡丽完美做工的一个理由。其实,只要找到真正的行家,人们可以合成咖啡色、灰色甚至黑色等多种不同色彩的18k金来,只是习惯性思维让人觉得金一定要黄,白与红就少见了,蓝更加显得突出。
  黄金无假,颜色各异,现代炼金术让手表更加多姿多彩。
historically, many alchemists have tried to create cheaper gold for profit by some means, thus accumulating the experience of gold with different textures and color effects after adding different elements.
unlike the standard 18k gold, pink gold, which is slightly red in color, has different names such as red gold and rose gold, and because it used to be popular in russia in the early 19th century and has russian gold (russian the name of gold). its composition is basically 750 pure gold plus 250 electrolytic pure copper, with strong ductility, high hardness, not easy to deform or scratch, and color variability and so on. the latter is particularly due to changes in the composition of the alloy if you add silver, the color will be lighter, add more silver, the lighter the red will be. when the amount of silver increases to 10%, and the copper content recedes to about 15%, the color will be lighter or more partial powder. nowadays, people are used to using different numbers to define the change of their chromaticity 3n powder (ingredients 75% pure gold plus 13% silver plus 12% copper), 4n powder gold (ingredients 75% pure gold plus 9% silver plus 16% copper), 5n powder gold (ingredients 75% gold plus 4.5% silver plus 20.5% copper). as you can see, the less silver you add and the more copper you have, the more the color is darker and redder.
in addition, it is 18k platinum that is most likely to cause misunderstanding. although it is generally difficult to distinguish in color from stainless steel, platinum, etc., it is still a kind of 18k gold, but its composition is slightly different.the proportion of pure gold is also still 750, as for the other 250 of the metal, which is often the secret of the family. vacheron constantin changed the platinum formula of its men's watches in 2007. the more common platinum ingredients are pure gold 75% plus palladium 12.5% plus copper 6% plus silver 4% plus nickel 2.5%, and then electroplating metal rhodium protection, but vacheron constantin to increase the proportion of palladium to 15%, this expensive action so that platinum does not need to electroplating rhodium can be more shiny, the factory also pointed out that such a formula will increase its strength, it's less likely to wear out. in fact, like 18k platinum, 18k powder gold is also prone to fading phenomenon, so patek philippe and rolex in recent years have promoted their 18k powder gold formula special, is the so-called eternal non-fading new materials, in fact, only experts can distinguish the color of the distinctive place. in addition, with the help of modern alloy casting technology, people can also make a very different texture in the color of the past 18k gold. the former, such as yubo corporation material r & amp; d department of the new production of the world's first scratch-proof material magic gold. it all started with a whimsical 18k gold that won't get scratched. with the assistance of the federal institute of technology in lausanne, after six months of feasibility studies, a new anti-wear 18k gold combined with gold and ceramics was eventually born. this is a new material that has not been seen before, only diamonds can leave a real scratch on its surface and distinguish it from other gold in the color of dark asia. the significance of the birth of magic gold is not limited to a material, but opens the door to the advent of many new materials. currentmagic platinum, magic silver, magic aluminum and other materials are in the process of active research. the latter, such as the 165yearshomage to f.a.lange anniversary series three complex feature watches launched by lange in memory of its founder, ferdinando adolf langues, is a way to change the composition of metals, as distinct from the traditional limited list, and honey gold (honey gold) the material is thus born with a material that is still 18k gold, but is hard and its hardness exceeds 300 degrees fahrenheit, increasing its hardness to twice times that of other gold alloys, and even more than platinum. its gloss is very unique, the color is far lighter than the ordinary 18k, very long history of antique watches charm. according to the factory, the reason for this effect is due to the addition of manganese and silicon and after high temperature treatment. vague, adding a bit of mystery, as if it were a modern mystery made by some modern alchemists in a closed underground chamber, fiddling with a flask, an electric stove or something.
in a similar situation, patek philippe still adheres to the recipe secret 18k blue gold. whether it's an oval 3738 or its classic gold cufflinks, the unfathomable blue glow attracts the attention of many people and becomes a reason for tibetans to praise patek philippe for its perfect workmanship. in fact, as long as we find a real connoisseur, people can synthesize coffee, gray and even black and other different colors of 18k gold to come, but the habitual thinking makes people feel that gold must be yellow, white and red is rare, blue more prominent.
gold is free of false, different colors, modern alchemy makes the watch more colorful.
北京劳力士专修
维修中心地址:上海市静安区南京西路梅龙镇广场12楼 品牌简介 劳力士(rolex)是瑞士的手表制造商,前身为wilsdorf and davis(w&d)公司,由德国人汉斯·威斯多夫(hans wilsdof)与英国人戴维斯(alfred davis)于1905年在伦敦合伙经营。1908 年由汉斯·威斯多夫在瑞士的拉夏德芬(la chaux-de-fonds)注册更名为rolex。劳力士以庄重、实用、不显浮华的风格广受成功人士喜爱,其表款高度精准且具备超高的耐用度,在钟表圈中,劳 力士的爱好者们常常会用一句话来形容劳力士:一“劳”永逸。
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